Uneven complexion and blemishes on the face are very common skin concerns that patients bring up during cosmetic consultations with me. As a board-certified dermatologist in Brighton, Michigan, I have multiple clinic lasers and procedures that I can use to help brighten one’s complexion. However, I always remind patients that there are many good over the counter products as well that can be tried before committing to procedures and prescription products. Here are a few items to look for if you want to even up a blotchy complexion with over the counter products:

You should always understand the science behind why blemishes happen on the face.  Dark uneven complexion on the skin happens from the presence of too much melanin and inflammation in the skin. Melanin is produced by pigment producing cells called melanocytes in the skin. Melanocytes are activated by ultraviolet light (UV, found in sunlight), and makes more color in response to it. To a lesser extent, visible light and infrared light too can activate melanocytes.

To prevent this activation of melanocytes, reducing or avoidance of UV light, infrared, and visible light can help in reducing eventual pigmentation, and to maintain improvement from a successful regimen. The use of facial sunscreen for this purpose should be daily, regardless of season, enough of the product should be used, and reapplication during the day should happen if possible.

The best daily sunscreens on the market that would not irritate even those with sensitive skin types, are light weight mineral based or physical sunscreens with a tint. Sunscreen brands with a good reputation include : Avene tinted mineral fluid, La Roche Posay Anthelios mineral, Colorscience Face Shield, Replenix Ultimatte , and Alastin hydratint pro mineral.

Another reason why skin sometimes looks uneven, is due to the presence of skin dullness, often due to too much dead skin cell layers that are not being shed efficiently.  The use of retinols every night, or every other night for the sensitive skin types, can help with exfoliating the dead skin cell layers over time. Think of this category of products as chemical exfoliants. The main concern with this category of products is that it can leave the skin dry and irritated if the formulation is not tolerable. It is also not suitable for those who are pregnant or nursing .

Some over the counter options include: ROC retinol correxion, the Ordinary, Renova, and SkinBetter Alpharet.

Ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C is an antioxidant. It protects our skin from the presence of free radicals and helps build collagen and reduces pigmentation. Vitamin C formulations are often quite acidic and those with sensitive skin need to be careful. I suggest starting at a low concentration for Vitamin C like a 10% formulation and slowly increase as tolerated gradually. There are formulations that are as high as 30% , but one must anticipate that irritation is more likely at these higher concentration.  Vitamin C when combined with other antioxidants can create even better results than Vitamin C by itself.

Several combination vitamin C brands include: SkinBetter Alto and CE Ferulic.

Over the counter vitamin C preparations exist that are at a lesser price point: Drunk elephant C-Firma, and Murad. 

Arbutin is an organic skin lightening agent found in the leaves of pear trees and certain plants such as wheat and bearberry, and in lower quantities in cranberry and blueberry leaves. Arbutin is also an antioxidant in the skin. It is less potent than hydroquinone (a prescription skin lightening agent with some side effect potential), but has a better safety profile than hydroquinone.  Over the counter, it is found in the Ordinary skin line for a very affordable price.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring molecule derived from rye, wheat, and barley. It is a molecule capable of multiple effects on the skin, from reducing inflammation in the skin, acting as an antioxidant, helping fight comedones and thickened skin, and reducing pigmentation. Although easily available as a somewhat pricey prescription, at a much lesser price point and reduced concentration it can be found over the counter in the Ordinary line.

Some did not make the list

There are other molecules that we can discuss in future posts that can help the skin’s complexion as well. But if I were stuck on a remote island and only had room for 1 to 5 items, they would be found in the above categories ( Number one would be sunscreen of course!). If there is room for other options, I would consider adding products that contain niacinamide, exfoliating agents such as weekly peels with glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acids, hydroquinone, cysteamine,  and oral supplements such as oral niacinamide and  polypodium extract.

*Some of the products mentioned above such as SkinBetter are available at our clinic, please click on our “SKINCARE PRODUCTS” section on our website.

Spring Savings: 25%-30% discounted pricing on all products and services for April and May 2020, including brands such as Colorescience, Alastin, Revision and SkinBetter.

Virtual visits are available by emailing dsbtelederm@thedermspecialists.com , or contact us at (810) 355 4300.

Stay home, stay healthy, and be safe!

The post Top 5 things to brighten your complexion appeared first on Dermatology Specialists of Brighton.